San Rafael Swell 4WD Trails

The San Rafael Swell, located southwest of the community of Green River, Utah, is a unique and outstandingly beautiful place. A widespread uplifted area of the earth’s surface has eroded through the eons into a region of colorful canyons, mesas, buttes and pinnacles. And the stark obliqueness of the San Rafael Reef provides an unusual panorama. Some of the canyons are large enough to be driven into, indeed have had a long time historical use by motorized and mechanized vehicles. Other canyons are narrow and beautifully carved pathways, often suitable for only the most able-bodied hiker.

The Swell and surrounding areas have become the center of the conflict in Utah over public access issues. Proposed legislation H.R. 1500 includes much of this area in the 5.7 millions of acres sought for closure as Wilderness. See how much of Utah would be closed: http://www.vlj.com/hr1500.shtml. And now the extreme minority behind this scheme will be seeking 8.5 million acres! The Bureau of Land Management Proposed OHV Travel Plan for the area, now under review, is likewise predominantly a plan for mass closures to access by motorized and mechanized users. The recently introduced legislation H.R. 3625, the San Rafael Swell National Heritage Area and Conservation Area Act, is a step in the right direction. It allows for continued use, where appropriate, on existing historically used roads and routes. It is somewhat unclear how much cherry stemming of roads would be adopted in new Wilderness and Primitive Non-Motorized designated areas. View the H.R. 3625 map at: http://www.vlj.com/srsnhca.shtml. The Emery County, Utah website provides further insight on this latest proposal: http://utahreach.usu.edu/emery/heritage/index.htm.

The incentive for re-visiting this area was to highlight several 4-wheel drive roads that are legitimate routes, have historical attributes, provide a truly enjoyable primitive motorized experience and are threatened with closure. Current 7 1/2 minute U.S.G.S. maps show these routes. The BLM recognizes their existence as they are shown on it’s very own OHV Travel Plan map! Many other similar routes in the San Rafael Resource Area are likewise threatened. Devils’ Racetrack and Little Wild Horse Canyon are highlighted in the September ‘98 issue of 4WD & SU. Such routes should remain open for motorized and mechanized users that by choice, or necessity, use them to access primitive areas. Only a select few may be able to enjoy such primitive areas in the future.

And, such irony that on this weekend our country was celebrating it’s Independence Day and the Freedoms it represents, that I should drive these roads which may be taken away from the majority of citizens use and enjoyment!

This road is a real keeper! The start can be reached by taking the Hans Flat Road east off highway 24 or south from the town of Green River on the Green River Road for about 33 miles. Emery County sure has done a great job recently in replacing the bridge over the San Rafael River and other roadwork so that visitors can quickly proceed along this gravel road to enjoy remote areas of the county.

June’s Bottom road is moderate in difficulty. But, it could be very hazardous in that it travels into an extremely remote area. It should only be attempted by those experienced and well equipped. Or, travel in a group with others that are. If you have a breakdown or an emergency, you will be miles from any help.

The book "River Guide to Canyonlands National Park and Vicinity", by Michael Kelsy, contains an excellent summary of the history of June's Bottom. Gene Dunham, who ran the huge Ruby Ranch for 4 decades (and still assists), provided me with area history also. About 1933, Andy Moore had a cattle permit for this area. He allowed June Marsing to build a ranch in the bottom. A home was built into the hill with a rock front. Nearby is the intermittent spring that was one of the sources of water for the family. At first, cars were parked above and the descent aided by ropes. Later, he built a road to the bottom. Over 60 years have passed and the dugway and piles of rock to make the road are in remarkable shape!

June and his family took care of Andy's cows and farmed along the river. Gene said that little fencing was needed...mainly just a wire gate. (The remnants are still there.) An old boiler in the bottom can be seen. Oak and brush was burned to generate steam for pumping water for the farm. Vegetables grew very well. But, this was during the Depression and transporting the produce was difficult. The farm failed and the Marsing's moved in 1937 to a ranch.

Earlier, during Prohibition, in the 1920's and early ‘30's, this location was one used by "Moonshiners"! Remote, what better place to make whiskey!

The first 1 1/2 miles of two track road is "high speed" as it is smooth and straight. But watch out, the road then bends left and down through a wash. Would be trouble if you slide into the washout on the right side of the road at this turn! When you come to a "Y", keep left. The road works its way in and out of a small drainage and over small hills. The scenery begins to get interesting. At 3 ½ miles, the road drops off the reddish-brown layer of soil onto a flat area of light colored slickrock.

The route is now a mixture of slickrock patches and firm sand sections. Somewhat difficult to follow on the slickrock. Continue towards the east following as direct a route as possible, avoiding cracks and steep drop-offs. An occasional cairn (rock pile) is spotted. The route will follow close to the reddish soil and rock layer off to your right (south) at one point. About the time you have driven east past this reddish rock layer, a change in direction takes place.

Look for a conspicuous cairn and nearby pile of rocks. It is at this point that the route drives down a couple of steep, tricky ledges onto a lower level of slickrock. From here, a number of significant rock cairns are visible as you continue. The road is dropping in elevation as it heads toward the canyon.

Where the road begins a much steeper descent, you approach the first of several sections where the roadway was stabilized and protected from erosion by considerable stacking of rocks. The trail is narrow past this rock work, then crosses a slickrock saddle and on down the hill to the right. A little unnerving.

Next, the trickiest spot comes up. Better walk this first! The vehicle must make a left hand turn while pointing steeply downhill. The right front tire is uncomfortably close to the edge, the left rear must come off a ledge. More to the left is dangerously tippy. Cherokees can get some air under the left rear tire during this off-camber maneuver. The route continues downward and then along a narrow slickrock shelf, still a little off-camber. After following along this cliff edge in a semi-circle, the road turns left and levels off. A whole bunch unnerving! Time to breathe again.

The road continues downhill into the canyon past more significant rockwork on the road edge. At the bottom of the canyon, the road is disguised by and ultimately disappears amongst the vegetation. Not far is the remains of two rock structures. Someone went to a lot of trouble to build this road and the structures.

There is an alternate route that heads towards June’s Bottom that begins about one mile further east. The road is well defined until reaching the slickrock. There still is evidence of the continuation of this trail and of recent use. This route stays on the east side of the reddish-brown rock outcropping. It crosses patches of slickrock, but mostly stays on the adjacent reddish-brown layer of hard sand. From this road, great panoramic views of Bull Hollow and the Labyrinth Canyon to the east are possible. I do recommend taking this road in a ways from the south, as a side trip, to enjoy the scenery that cannot be seen from any other location.

GPS Coordinates (Datum WGS 84 Points)	Location
12 05 74547 42 78 773	Start of June’s Bottom road
12 05 75673 42 81 386	Keep left at the Y
12 05 76300 42 83 666	Trail drops off a small hill onto flat slickrock
12 05 77166 42 84 072	Cairn & rock pile where route drops to lower level on slickrock
12 05 78496 42 84 815	Approach to the first significant rockwork
12 05 78040 42 85 073	Ruins of rock structures in June’s Bottom

This is a road that travels to and past the overlook of the Green River at Trin-Alcove Bend. While on the Green River Road, 1 3/4 miles south of the San Rafael River, turn left (east) onto the two track road. In .8 miles a route to the right (south) is visible. I took this route and soon, staying to the right and following other tire tracks, ran into a dead-end. Heading back, I took the first right branch and found myself correctly heading towards the south. Several branch routes in this area show on the BLM map. There probably is a better route choice from the north than what I picked! The road is mostly sand and rock, very firm. Soon, the route includes crossing some slickrock surfaces. Views to the southeast are of the upper reaches of Labyrinth Canyon. To the east is Bull Bottom and to the northeast, the canyon walls completely disappear. Occasionally, the trail is hard to follow. There were other tracks from previous users and following those seemed to work fine. Two miles along the trail, a small section of slickrock had a line of rocks placed to mark the trail. This small contribution confirms the route is correct. A long stretch on the slickrock follows. The route primarily is adjacent to where the slickrock and the reddish-brown layer meets. Occasional crude cairns and the old trail visible in the gravel confirm the route.

Heading southward along the trail, you come to a large climb up the slickrock to the right. Two routes lead to the top, each marked with cairns. Both climbs are not difficult and meet at the same place. At the top of the hill you join a well defined, more traveled route. Also at this location, a branch road goes out to an overlook. This is the overlook of the Trin-Alcove Bend. The Green River flows through a tight loop, only a narrow neck of land remains. Pretty neat views! From here, or a little further to the south, you can hike across the slickrock to Three Canyon. This canyon has 3 distinct legs, each narrow and dark.

Heading further to the south and beyond the slickrock, the road is very well defined all the way back to the county road. This trail is very easy and worth driving to see some interesting scenery that few others will. If time is short, travel this road from the south to the Trin-Alcove Bend overlook and then back. Total distance traveled north to south was about 6 ½ miles.

Peering into part of dark Three Canyon

The southern portion of the road is very well defined

GPS Coordinates (Datum WGS 84 Points)	Location
12 05 75305 42 87 724	Start of road to Trin-Alcove Bend from the north
12 05 76410 42 88 352	Right turn
12 05 76487 42 86 903	Line of rocks on slickrock mark the route
12 05 76013 42 84 963	Overlook of Trin-Alcove Bend
12 05 74272 42 85 005	Southern end of the road

To reach this road, take the dirt road to the west, just south of mile marker 140 on highway 24. Eventually, you come to a 4-way intersection. Continuing straight ahead towards the San Rafael Reef marks the start of this 4-WD road. Actually, this road is located just south of the Old Woman Wash, paralleling it for a bit. There are long stretches of soft sand in the early part of the trail. Lower tire pressures would be a plus here. A bit more speed may be necessary. As these sandy stretches are mostly level, I suppose those unfortunate enough to bog down in the sand won’t have too much trouble extricating themselves.

Keep in mind that this road, and the next two highlighted, enters an area presently designated as Wilderness Study Area. Not signed, access is currently allowed. Do treat these areas with respect, "Treading Lightly", to help support our claim that these roads should remain open.

The surface becomes hard pack sand and rock as it begins to climb up the reef. While not the high angles seen elsewhere in the San Rafael Reef, the tilted rock layer ads an interesting dimension. The road continues to climb and the views are becoming increasingly exciting. Looking down to the right you can see evidence of another road to an old mine site. Perhaps the road said to have begun in the Old Woman Wash? What appears to be pictographs are seen in the distance. Such Fremont Culture rock art does abound in the region. Historical "Robber’s Roost" country can be seen off to the southeast.

The road continues a slow climb on exposed rock and sand/gravel surfaces, through piñon pines and cedars. The road seems to dead end at a loop. This loop is actually a digging site where copper was sought. A branch off the road at this point continues further up the Reef. Eventually, a high point is reached where small branch roads seem to go off in several directions. Branches built probably not for the views, but for copper extraction. This is a fine point to take some panoramic photos. One of the branches is said to end at a steep cliff at the western edge of the reef.

This may be the only road currently open to the top of the San Rafael Reef. It is not difficult, the views are extraordinary. Short hikes to interesting features are possible from this road. Continued public access for motorized and mechanized users is justified.

GPS Coordinates (Datum WGS 84 Points)	Location
12 05 36650 42 80 707	4 way intersection west of Hwy 24, start of road
12 05 32837 42 83 1119	Area of Copper prospecting
12 05 32598 42 82 994	Several branch roads, views from top of San Rafael Reef

Many of the "green" extremists are driven into a frenzy when they hear of vehicular traffic in a wash! Oh the destruction of the helpless riparians.... Well, Iron Wash is typical of washes throughout the canyon country of southeastern Utah. Dry most of the year. Sandy bottoms, weedy vegetation. (Even those washes with perennial or intermittent trickles of running water are very similar.) Perhaps a flash flood every year or two from a localized thunderstorm "hoses" out the canyon.

The road begins in a wide sandy, pebbly wash. As you enter into the reef, the canyon walls become taller. More red color in the rock. After about 1 1/2 miles, navigation for 4-WD vehicles is halted due to narrowing and ruggedness of the wash bottom. But, 2 wheel vehicles can continue all the way through the reef.

GPS Coordinates (Datum WGS 84 Points)	Location
12 05 38849 42 83 189	Start up Iron Wash road
12 05 37185 42 84 578	Area of increasing reddish color, end of 4-WD navigation

The starting point of this road is back some distance from the reef itself, much closer to Hwy 24. In a couple of miles, the road enters a wash and soon starts into the canyon. It is very wide for awhile. After about 3 1/2 miles, the canyon becomes redder and deeper. Interesting erosion patterns on the walls! Some look like Swiss Cheese.

The going slows somewhat in another half mile to snake through a narrow section. At one point on the road, the vehicle tips to the left, towards a huge waiting rock. But no paint has been left behind. Then, a big rock slab to crawl over.

After traveling 5 miles from the start of Ernie Canyon road, you come to the old mine. Uranium was extracted throughout the region in the 1950's to satisfy the demand brought on by the Cold War. There are colorful rocks at the mouths of the mine entrance, but nothing you’d want around your home or yard!

About 1/2 mile beyond the mine, the route becomes more rocky and narrow past some big standing rocks. A short hike revealed the canyon to open back up in a few hundred yards. The BLM map shows the 4-WD road continuing for about another 1 1/2 miles. But, a lack of time left in the day required and end to the exploration and this was a good turnaround point.

GPS Coordinates (Datum WGS 84 Points)	Location
12 05 41370 42 84 135	Start of road to Ernie Canyon
12 05 38135 42 87 325	Narrow past big rock
12 05 38111 42 88 157	Old mine
12 05 37954 42 88 017	Turn around
12 05 36750 42 89 075	Approximate end of road on BLM map (& using U.S.G.S. maps)
12 05 42366 42 83 556	Road to/from Ernie Canyon and the San Rafael Reef at mile point 142.5 on Highway 24

Maps of the 4X4 Trails in This Article

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