SOMEWHERE IN MEXICO

A Copper Canyon/Sierra Madre Adventure
With the Fukarwe Touring Tribe International

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Day 6 by Jean Akens
with photos from Carmen Hill, Charlie Freeman, Ellie Lincoln and Bob Stuckey

Before leaving the area, the "overlook" road was taken to a rim viewpoint of the Cascada, where those not wishing to hike to Basaseachic can see the falls. The group then headed toward the town of Creel, the center for Copper Canyon exploration. The route, via San Juanito, crossed the Continental Divide again, this time at an elevation exceeding 9000 feet. A wide, well-maintained, dirt logging road wound its way through dense forests of long-needled Apache (and other) pines and in and out of high mountain valleys dotted with tiny villages. (NOTE: More than three or four homes often constitute a "town" in this remote section of Mexico, thereby awarding it designation on Chihuahua State and certain country maps, so don't plan on necessarily obtaining provisions.)

After a brief stop in San Juanito, looking for "Magna Sin," (unleaded gas; there was none), the group went on to Creel. Missing the gas station, the Tribe followed the cobblestone main street through town to the village square - and beyond. True to Fukarwe style, Ellie and Bob, who were then in the lead, kept saying over the C.B., "Don't follow us; the street's too narrow. It dead-ends and there is nowhere to turn around."

Despite the warning, everyone - either not hearing or not paying attention - followed. Some did make it through, by traversing single-track alleys and dipping under a low-roofed overpass, while others (mostly the ones without trailers) managed to turn around. Villagers lining the street watched the shenanigans with smiles, but without comment.

Just as Brad and I had made the turn and gotten back to the corner, a Mexican woman approached to ask where we were going and if we were looking for a place to stay. She was speaking in reasonably good - though heavily accented - English, I was attempting to explain in very poor Spanish, and Brad, who spent 10 years managing a trading post on the Navajo Reservation, was virtually tongue-tied because he could only think in Navajo! (The comedy of the situation gave us many a good laugh, later.)

Somehow, we managed to communicate and learned that the woman was "Margarita," who runs a small, (but well-known and much written-about) hotel next to the town square. Unmarked by any signs, the hotel is unobtrusive in appearance. Margarita encouraged us to come back once we got everyone together again and she would give us information on lodging or places to camp. The separated Fukarwes finally re-grouped at the Pemex station. Here again, the only gasoline available was the regular Nova, but we were grateful for any fuel by this time. The station restrooms gave us our first glimpse of a custom that prevailed for the rest of our time in Mexico. Since the septic systems are so poor is remote areas, toilet paper is always thrown on the floor or placed in buckets or some other provided container. It is important that visitors do not add to the problem of clogging up the sewers, but should follow the practice of adding their paper to the piles.

Gassed up, and finally able to talk to everyone in person, we decided to go back to Margaritas and find out how much it would cost to stay there. what a bargain it proved to be - and a culturally-enriching experience.

The cost per person was around $l0-12.00 (depending on how many shared a room), which included dinner and breakfast, family style. This meant that everyone ate whatever was being served at that particular meal, sitting around a large table either in the kitchen or small dining room. It was truly an International group of lodgers; represented were France, Switzerland, Germany, England and New Zealand, as well as several from the United States.

There are no keys to the doors at Margaritas (unless you really insist, and then you must pay a deposit), because no one has ever had anything stolen. Several levels, and many classes of rooms, surround a small, central courtyard, with other accommodations available behind the main building. Backpackers who arrive by train are frequent guests at the hotel, and many stay in dormitory-style rooms for around $2.00 a night (including meals). Laundry can be done at the bunkhouse sink, using a scrub board and a bar of soap (I was the only one to take advantage of this amenity), after which you climb one level and crawl over a railing onto a flat rooftop, to hang your washing on a clothesline. Margarita's is definitely not a fancy place, but the rooms are clean and neat, "safe" water is provided, and the homey Mexican atmosphere is unparalleled.

Settled in, everyone went to eat lunch at a Mexican cafe, then separated into small groups to explore Creel. Although becoming more tourist-oriented, the town, at 7671 feet elevation, is primarily a mining and logging community of about 8000 residents. Creel is a main stop on the Chihuahua/Pacific Railroad, which is an engineering marvel and the only way to cross the Barranca del Cobre country except for the rough, little-traveled roads we later followed. The town is also the center for the Tarahumara Indians, who live in the mountainous canyon country surrounding the town. Tarahumara crafts are inexpensive and well-made, and the bargains in Creel were the best found on the trip.

After a lively dinner at Margaritas, with interesting conversations in numerous languages, the Touring Tribe gathered in the town plaza across the street. It soon grew too chilly, however, and everyone retired to their rooms. (NOTE: Guide books stress how hot it is in Copper Canyon country at any time other than mid-winter, so none of us were adequately prepared for the cool weather encountered in late May. Plan for any temperature.)

Too excited by finally being in much-read-about Creel to go to bed, many in the group gathered in the small room shared by Ann and I, where we talked, drank margaritas, laughed, behaved like children just let out on summer vacation, and recounted the day's events.

SOMEWHERE IN MEXICO

Fourteen Daily Episodes

Introduction | Day 1 | Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day 6 | Day 7
Day 8 | Day 9 | Day 10 | Day 11 | Day 12 | Day 13 | Day 14

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