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Day 3 by Jean Akens
with photos from Carmen Hill, Charlie Freeman, Ellie Lincoln and Bob Stuckey
The next morning the group crossed the Continental Divide, the first of many crossings as the jagged crest of the Sierra Madres was followed south. The quiet villages of Nogales and Janos were passed. In the bustling town of Nuevo Casa Grandes the vehicles gassed up and, after much delay in finding a place to exchange money, we were set for Mexico.
"I knew it was a Fukarwe run when the bank only exchanged dollars for pesos between 10:00 a.m. and noon; we were too late and too early!" Charlie Freeman
The first mishap of the trip was discovered as we were leaving Nuevo Casas Grandes. Frenchie's "specially-designed" tow hitch had broken and a welding job was in order. With the guidance of two small Mexican boys and the invaluable help of trip interpreter, Carmen, a nearby welding shop was located and the problem taken care of within two hours. The rest of the group good-naturedly took the delay in stride, waiting beside the road south of town while repairs were made, entertaining themselves with trips to the liquor store, buying ice cream from a traveling vendor, and telling stories about Frenchie - which he wasn't around to hear.
A visit to Paquime,
the prehistoric ruins at Casa Grandes, followed in mid-afternoon, although for
those in the group who arrived later than Brad and I (who had gotten tired of waiting and
arranged to meet the Tribe at the ruins when repairs were completed), it was more like a
"Fukarwe drive-by."
While thunderheads gathered and a few raindrops spattered, the huge complex dating to the 1000s was explored, unfortunately without interpretive signs or guide books to explain the awesome ruins, thought to be a major trading center between the prehistoric peoples of the south and those in the Four Corners area - the Mogollon, Anasazi, Mimbres, and other cultures who desired the copper, parrots and such goods that were traded north from Mexico and Central America.
Another reminder that you
were "somewhere in Mexico Fukarwe-style" came when the outhouses at Paquime
were visited. The only locks on the wooden pit toilets were on the OUTSIDE of the doors,
which were warped and couldn't he shut from the inside. This necessitated holding the door
closed with one hand and taking care of business with the other!
There was some map-reading confusion and the group made a wrong turn and ended up in the small town of Juarez, where the road dead-ended. Villagers lined the main street to watch the Gringo parade file past - and later return. We all smiled and waved.
A stop at a new Pemex gas station north of Galeana led to a beautiful camp site beside the Rio Santa Maria, a lush oasis in the desert. The young man working at the station, who had lived much of his life in Texas and spoke flawless English, informed us that his uncle owned the ranch behind the station. He said we could follow the road to the ranch and camp by the river. The Rio Santa Maria flowed strong, its banks lined with giant cottonwoods and thick grass, making it another perfect campsite.
Highlights of the evening included a visit from Mexican cowboys, the consumption of Anejo (rum), fireflies flitting through the trees (the first ever seen by several members of the group), and a "frog hunt," where flashlights were splayed over the river until the bulging eyes of the prey were caught in their glare. During the night also came the first (but not the last) thunder storm to dampen our tents and other gear - but never our spirits! However, the special-built camp trailers began to look much nicer to those of us without a solid roof over our heads.
SOMEWHERE IN MEXICO
Fourteen Daily Episodes
Introduction | Day 1
| Day 2 | Day 3 | Day 4 | Day 5 | Day
6 | Day 7
Day 8 | Day 9 | Day
10 | Day 11 | Day 12 | Day 13 | Day 14
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