Please visit our Sponsor, CLICK on the Banner above
by Clark & Linda Pate
EDITOR'S NOTE: Clark and Linda Pate retired about a year and a half ago. Clark worked in the aerospace industry for 31 years in various positions, but most recently as a productivity and improvement expert. Linda retired from, as she puts it, a “checkered” career as a mathematician, mother, “slicer dicer lady,” salesperson and administrative assistant. Since their retirement, Clark and Linda have been having a grand time four wheeling with their fire-engine red Land Rover Discovery.
It was with much anticipation that my wife and I set out in semi-darkness and
early Friday-morning traffic for our rendezvous in Costa Mesa with the Silver
Coyote and others of our 1996 Baja Whale Watch adventure. 
In
the glow of the cafe, with coffee in hand, we took care of last-minute details
and met others of our group with whom we would spend the next six days becoming
friends and sharing always interesting and sometimes exciting experiences. For
some this was their first adventure with the Coyote, and for others it was
another of many. As promised, all that had gathered were rolling down I-405
toward the border promptly at 6:30 AM with the Coyote in the lead and Bill
Pawluk riding sweep as they would throughout the trip.
The world was slowly awakening as the sun made its way into the ever-changing pastel sky. Gradually more and more cars carrying people on their way to work filled the road as we made our way to the US border town of San Ysidro. With the help of the CB radio our caravan was joined by more of our group. By the time we gassed up and exchanged dollars for peso’s at one of the many San Ysidro money exchanges, our caravan totaled 14 vehicles, two of which were two-wheel drive. The trip was open this year to two-wheel drive vehicles, no real rough stuff.
Crossing the border and having our visas stamped by a dutiful Mexican migración official was routine except for one of our party who left their prepared visa paperwork on top of their vehicle. Scrambling for their papers blowing through San Ysidro traffic was more excitement than they, and those who stopped to help, had anticipated so early in the trip.
The weather was sunny, but slightly hazy as we wound our way to Ensenada along Mex 1-D, a smooth divided tollway comparable to a US freeway. Mex 1-D to Ensenada offers views of the Pacific Ocean from high upon cliffs to a stone's throw away, as well as a cross section of Mexican towns and housing, from the very poor to the very luxurious and thriving to abandoned.
The Coyote says that the secret to automotive travel in Mexico is gassing up frequently, before you need it, so we all stopped for gas in Ensenada. It was here at the Pemex station in front of the green unleaded pump that I, untested in pesos, tried to give the Mexican attendant much more than the 70 pesos indicated on the pump. He graciously refused to take the money and patiently explained my error to me when he could have easily pocketed my mistake. This was my first experience with the refreshing honesty of Mexican people.
Then in no time we were back on the road again headed toward Cataviña via Mex 1, which is a two-lane road and not a tollway. We were to follow Mex 1 until we returned to Ensenada six days later. Let me just say now that although Mex 1 is an adequate road, there are portions that definitely could benefit from pothole repair. With our goal to reach Cataviña before dark, we kept moving, with the exception of potty stops and a lunch from the back of our vehicles in front of a pleasant little green park in San Vicente.
It was on our way to Cataviña, at first with the glistening Pacific not too far to our right and then inland across some of the surprisingly alive Baja desert, that the Coyote via CB informed us of points, vegetation and animal life of interest. Did you know that the Baja desert has many plant relatives to those of our US deserts? These relatives look very much like our plants but have subtle differences, like the pleating on cardon cactus which is related to our saguaro cactus. And it was here that we learned and practiced what I will call the “Coyote slingshot.” This particular maneuver has been described recently, so I will not describe it again. It works well and gets the caravan around a slower vehicle much faster than if we all were on our own.
It was a tired but
happy and better informed caravan that pulled into the dusty Pemex
station next to Hotel La Pinta in Cataviña as the sun was
disappearing behind the horizon in an orange-streaked sky. The station had
gasoline. It was dark by the time we filled up and tipped the attendant and the
two eager little dark-haired boys with large dark eyes who washed and wiped our
windshields. The Coyote hosted a marguerita cocktail party that evening and we
all got to know each other better as we discussed the events of the day and what
to expect tomorrow.
Saturday was a
beautiful day; the temperature encouraged shirtsleeve and the cloudless,
deep-blue sky and calm air allowed the shadows to sharply define the abstract
patterns of Baja desert rocks, sand and vegetation. The weather was ideal for
our trek to see colorful ancient pictographs, which have been protected from the
elements under and between boulders high up a nearby hill. 
Ever the teacher, the Coyote described many desert plants as we hiked. He showed
us an easy way to climb the hill to the pictographs which he said was the way
lazy cows climb hills. We didn’t see any cows so we had to take his word for
it.
Next it was back on Mex 1 again headed toward our whale-watch destination, Guerrero Negro. We all soon learned another good use of the CB. Upon rounding a curve, the Coyote announced, “Cow next to the road.” The vehicle behind him slowed although the driver couldn’t see around the curve. When they rounded the curve the cow had moved to the middle of their lane and was standing there staring at them impassively. Without the Coyote’s warning, we might have been towing a vehicle to the repair shop and eating steaks for dinner that evening. The CB was to prove its worth in this regard several times during the trip.
As we approached Guerrero Negro, the Coyote asked us to study the very large stylized eagle statue just outside of town on the border between Baja and Baja Sur to tell him if it is flying toward the north or south. There is a correct answer but I won’t tell you here because it would ruin your fun. You’ll have to sign up next year for the Baja Whale Watch and decide for yourself.
After a quick tour of Guerrero Negro we gassed up and split into two groups, those of us who were to stay at Hotel La Pinta and those who were to stay at the Malarrimo. It was interesting to learn that the town received its name from an American whaling ship, the Guerrero Negro or Black Warrior, that ran aground in the shallow waters near the mouth of Scammon’s Lagoon in 1858. For many years thereafter the stranded ship served as a marker for the shallow waters of the area. Malarrimo is a description of the area and means "dangerous to approach," which definitely is the case for ships.
Guerrero Negro exists today to mine salt from sea water by evaporation in vast pans dammed on the flat land of the area. Summers are hot and there always seems to be a breeze blowing, which helps speed the evaporation. Most of the town’s residents work at the salt works which is owned 49% by Mitsubishi and 51% by the Mexican government. This salt works are the second-largest salt producer in the world.
Early Sunday morning came with a gray overcast and acceptable wind, which can cause whale-watch cancellation when too strong. On our bus ride through the salt works to the whale boats, Enrique Achoy Jr., son of the owner of both the Malarrimo and the whale-watch boats we were to use, described the salt works and the California gray whales of Scammon’s Lagoon (Laguna Ojo de Liebre). We saw a gigantic salt harvesting tractor with its two giant trailers up close. Its 12 wheels are each 12 feet tall and it is able to carry 360 tons of salt at a time, which it scoops up in 45 minutes from a salt flat.
Enrique informed us that the California gray whales migrate 6,000 miles from the Bering Sea to Scammon’s Lagoon to mate and have the babies which were conceived there between January and March the year before. Scammon’s Lagoon is safe for the defenseless babies because it is shallow and sharks, killer whales and other predators do not enter.
Mating is accomplished at the surface of the water with the help of a second male whose job is to provide resistance not afforded by the water for the female, sort of like a mattress. Birth takes place near the surface also, but more about that later. The whale census was put at 1,500 animals while we were there.
The whale watch
was definitely the highlight of the trip. I found it exhilarating as our
10-passenger whale boat skimmed across the water, its large outboard motor
whining in rhythm with the waves slapping its bow. We sat in anticipation
bundled in our life preservers and slickers, loose ends flapping in the breeze
and an occasional warm spray in our faces, which soon turned cold in the wind as
it ran off our cheeks and slickers.
Several playful dolphins joined us to ride our bow wake and jump alongside to
get a better look at us. 
Then
finally our captain slowed and cut the motor to drift about 20 feet from a
large, gray, barnacled back submerging only a few feet then rising again to
expel a large plume of air and mist in an audible “phaaaa.” There were times
when the mist carried across the boat and we could feel it on our faces. During
that morning we tracked many, many whales, adults and babies. Most of the babies
were curious about us, but usually their mothers kept their massive bodies
between the babies and our boat. We ate lunch provided and all too soon were on
our way back.
In the warmth of Malarrimo restaurant that evening the Coyote treated us to a delicious dinner of lobster, shrimp, whitefish, scallops and baked potatos. If you ever visit the Malarrimo, be sure to go into the bar. It is filled with interesting flotsam collected over the years along the nearby coast. By now, friendships were becoming stronger. Because we were divided between three whale boats it was over dinner that we discovered that some of our friends in another boat actually saw whales mating. It was a sight to behold, according to the eyewitnesses.
After some haze, Monday became another beautiful blue-skied day. Some of us accompanied the Coyote on a pleasant drive to the town of San Ignacio to visit its 250-year-old Catholic church and interesting pictograph museum. Others drove to Mulege, some explored Guerrero Negro, while still others went on another whale watch. Upon returning to the Malarrimo late that afternoon, we were drawn to the excited voices of some of our group. We soon learned that those on the second whale watch had actually witnessed the birth of a baby whale. Cindy Obenski and her husband, Ken, were two of the lucky witnesses. Here is Cindy’s description of the day’s whale watch events.
"Today,
2/19/96, we went on a whale watching boat. Two females came up and rubbed
barnacles off of themselves against our boat. Being in a 20-foot long boat and
seeing a 50-foot whale going under it and feeling the bump is really something.
We also had one whale play games with us by hovering just under the boat, rising
and blowing water all over us, and then going down under us. She repeated this
numerous times, always coming up just inches from our outstretched hands.
We saw many many
whales ... flukes, breaches, spyhops, and even baleen. At times we did not know
which direction to look, as so much was happening all around us.
The absolute highlight of our day was the BIRTH of a whale. The nurse whale rose with the limp baby on top of her, bounced it around, submerged, and came up again with the still nonmoving infant atop her. This time the mother whale came over and gently rammed the baby, throwing it into the air a bit before all were once again under water. Then the baby took its FIRST BREATH, rising to the surface on its own, pushing nearly half of its body above the surface. After the baby’s second breath, the mother rolled upside down on the surface and we witnessed the afterbirth. What a spectacular day!"
When we awoke early Tuesday morning Guerrero Negro was shrouded by the chill of thick fog. We slowly made our way to Hotel La Pinta for a warm breakfast with our new friends and the start of our trek home. Fortunately the fog lifted soon after leaving. We practiced the Coyote slingshot on our way to Cataviña where we had planned to gas up, but no gas! So on we went to El Rosario where they did have plenty of gas.
That night we all stayed at Hotel La Pinta in Ensenada. Soon an impromptu marguerita party gathered on the hotel patio. Friendships were further strengthened and after a while many of us decided to look over the Las Rosas hotel. It was indeed a beautiful sight at night, steam rising from the swimming pool, lights everywhere accentuating the pastel colors of the buildings, pool, palms, shrubbery and the spectacular waves breaking over rugged rocks just beyond the pool. After a snack in the restaurant and much camaraderie we reluctantly called it a day and went back to Hotel La Pinta.
Then all too soon it was Wednesday and our adventure was almost over. Only four vehicles departed at 9:00 AM with the Coyote; the others stayed to sightsee and shop in Ensenada, stretching out departure for home as long as possible.
Now that we are home and our film has been developed we have many wonderful memories to reflect upon. yes, we’d recommend the trip, and yes, we’ll be going on many others with the Silver Coyote.
© Harry Lewellyn
Ecological 4-Wheeling Adventures
P.O. Box 12137
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
voice: (949) 645-7733
fax: (949) 645-7738
email: info@eco4wd.com
Other Ecological 4-Wheeling Adventures and Fourwheeling Academy Articles
Ecological 4-Wheeling Adventures Website
Mexico Trail Guidebooks, Trail Maps, and Trail Videos
| 4X4
BOOKS
.
com World's Best Selection of 4X4, Jeep, & Offroad Handbooks, Trail Guides, Videos, Maps, GPS and More |
4X4NOW
Feature Page
4X4NOW
Trail Reports | Moab
4WD Trails
4X4NOW
"How-To" | 4X4NOW
Buildups
4X4BOOKS
| MAPNOW
get Garmin at
GPSNOW
- Order by 5pm and have it Tomorrow!
Choosing |
for Laptop/Pocket PC | Basic
| Handheld Mapping | 2-way
Radio | Automotive | Motorcycle
| RV/Truck/Bus | Land & Water
Accessories
eTrex H | Legend
| Vista | Venture
HC | Summit HC | Legend
HCx | Vista HCx
GPS 18
DLX | 60
Mobile 10 | Mobile
10 for smartphones
GPSMAP 60 | 60Cx
| 60CSx | 76S
| 76Cx | 76CSx
| 276C | 376C
| 378 | 478
MapSource City Navigator
North America | US Topo | BlueChart
nüvi
200 | 270
| 350 | 360
| 370 | 650
| 660
| 670 | 680
Quest | Quest 2
Rino 110 | 120
| 130 | 520
| 530 | 520HCx
| 530HCx
StreetPilot 2820 | 7200/7500
| c330
| c340 | c530
| c550 | c580
Astro GPS dog tracking system
zūmo 450 / 550
© 4X4NOW